Mezcal: The aphrodisiac that makes you strong as a rhino
It’s pretty common, when we visit mezcaleros, that they’ll pull out a bottle and tell us it’s a special blend that serves as an aphrodisiac. Or Mexican Viagra. But … is that even possible? We ask Cocktail MD Ryan Aycock for the straight scoop, and somehow detour off into avocados and balut. It’s an eat-your-heart-out episode of Agave Road Trip!
The long, long history of aging mezcal in a barrel
There’s a school of thought that suggests that aging mezcal in wood isn’t traditional, and that the changes imparted by the barrel distract from the flavors and aromas of the agave. And, sure, there are some communities where the mezcaleros would never age in anything other than glass for those exact reasons. But you don’t have to travel very far from those palenques to find villages where — for hundreds of years — they’ve been aging mezcal in wood. It’s a kick-in-the-pants episode of Agave Road Trip!
Why Lou says “agave spirits” instead of “mezcal”
Back in the 1990s, the Mexican government took legal control of the word “mezcal” away from the people who have shepherded mezcal traditions for hundreds of years. But legal control isn’t the same as moral control. But what does it mean to refer to an uncertified agave spirit as mezcal in the USA? This episode of Agave Road Trip is entirely about why I say “agave spirits” to refer in the USA to what would be called “mezcal” in the communities where these heritage spirits are made.
It Ain’t Mezcal if it Ain’t Certified
There's a Denomination of Origin for mezcal -- has been since 1997. The Mexican government gets to decide what is and what isn't mezcal. So if the Mexican government doesn't recognize an agave spirit as "mezcal," should we? It's another rhetorical episode of Agave Road Trip!
Is Texas Messing with Sotol?
When people talk about mezcal and related agave spirits, they'll often lump in sotol. But it's not made from agave. But it is made in Mexico. But it's also now being made in Texas. And that's causing some waves. Is Texas messing with sotol? We skip through that minefield in this episode of Agave Road Trip!
The Birth and Death of the CRM (NOM mini-series #4 of 3)
Okay, to be fair, that title is 100% click-bait. Or, rather, it’s click-bait if you’re one of the agave geeks who even knows that the CRM is the body that certifies mezcal. Or, rather, that the CRM is *a* body that certifies mezcal – but *used* to be the sole body. And the end of the monopoly paired with the chaos over who controls the CRM … ? Well, that’s what the “death” part of the title refers to. Listen to this episode of Agave Road Trip if you want to join us in trying to sort out exactly what’s happening with this institution.
If They Kill NOM 199, will that Kill Uncertified Agave Spirits? (NOM mini-series #3 of 3)
NOM 006 defines what tequila is. NOM 070 defines what mezcal is. Bacanora has NOM 168, sotol has NOM 159, and raicilla … well, give raicilla a minute – they’ll get back to you. But every other spirit sold in Mexico is, in theory, defined by NOM 199. (Except pox – where’d pox go?) But in March 2021, the Mexican government proposed abolishing NOM 199. So where does that leave comiteco, charanda, xtabentún, aguardiente, and our beloved destilado de agave? In this third episode of our NOM mini-series, we speak with Alberto Esteban Marina, former Director General of the NOMs for the Mexican government and author of NOM 199, to get his thoughts on what exactly the abolition of Nom 199 could mean for all your favorite Mexican spirits.
Who Decides if it’s Mezcal? (NOM mini-series #2 of 3)
Mezcal is a Denomination of Origin, kind of like champagne. It’s controlled by the Mexican government, and that government gets to define what mezcal is. Then there’s a body that certifies mezcal, and since that Denomination of Origin has existed, that has been the CRM. But recent legislative changes in Mexico have opened up certification to three additional certifying bodies. In this second part of our NOM mini-series, we speak with Alberto Esteban Marina, former Director General of the NOMs for the Mexican government, about what these changes could mean for those bottles of mezcal on your backbar.
What’s in a NOM? (NOM Mini-series #1 of 3)
Maybe you’ve noticed on the back of your tequila bottles there’s a number preceded by “NOM.” It’s there on the back of your mezcal bottles, too, but it means something different. Or maybe you’ve been in an online forum where agave geeks were posting about NOM 070, or NOM 006, or NOM 199. Well, that’s another shade of different again. But all those NOMs come back to one general idea: regulations in Mexico. Join Agave Road Trip for the first of our NOM mini-series — a primer on NOMs. I can’t promise there won’t be any garden gnome jokes, but I can promise they won’t be very funny.
Certified Tacos
A number of restaurants in the USA are serving what they call tacos, but they’re skipping the certification process, so … should they be allowed to call their tacos “tacos”? Or should they have to call them “tortilla-wrapped meals”? We speak to the CRT (Consejo Regulador del Taco) to try to better understand the conflict in this delicious episode of Agave Road Trip!
Who Says It’s Not Mezcal?
Mezcal can only be made from the heart of the agave. Or … wait? It can be made from the leaves? And sometimes that worm in the bottle isn’t just for tourists? What’s true in one community is not true universally, and the only absolute truths are the ones the Mexican government puts to paper … until they edit that document. Join us for the most confounding episode yet of Agave Road Trip!